Bavarian Japanese
Sunday 14 December 2008 by kinakoJam
I'm pretty much used to bitching about Japanese food in Europe. But today, for once, I am happy to have the shoe on the other foot, as I defend Munich's Nomiya from both a Süddeutsche newspaper reviewer (who titled her piece "A Lot of Fuss about a Little bit of Sushi") and grumpy bloggers, who whined about the lighting being too bright, which I do not agree with at all.
This outpost in the lefty, trendy area of Haidhausen and Au is a combo of old-fashioned Bavarian style, with scuffed wooden sideboards and solid plank tables, and a modern, cozy izakaya vibe. With the addition of some low-hanging lights around the sushi counter, and some cool artwork by a Japanese artist who's lived in Munich since the '80s, and actual Japanese chefs preparing the food, the overall experience is very pleasing indeed. Of course, don't come here if your idea of a Japanese restaurant needs to include giant sashimi platters. This is an izakaya, and it's very casual food served here. So sashimi-lovers will need to get over it.
By the way, it's not uncommon to be seated quite close to other customers in an izakaya, so this is also something that fussy reviewers will need to get over. On the night we went, we weren't squashed next to blustering beer-lovers: just quiet, intellectual-looking local residents.
Good things:
A selection of grilled kushi-skewers including crunchy pear cut into an almond shape and wrapped with bacon. The sushi was yummy: all the ingredients were very fresh. I rate this type of casually presented 'home-style sushi' far above the overpriced, sub-standard stuff served at many places in Germany.
The 'keller bier' (basement beer) on tap was Bürgerbräu Hell - it was the highlight, upon which I do agree with Süddeutsche - served in a beer stein mug.
The cha-shu salad, with a nicely arranged small portion of pork, curly lettuce, some spring onions, sesame dressing and a dollop of mayo, also rocked.
Finally, the horensoo-gomae, which can be a benchmark of quality in Japanese restaurants, kicked ass.
Warm sesame balls or German red groats for dessert. (sour-sweet confiture of red berries)
Nomiya
Wörthstrasse 7
81667 Munich,
Germany
+49 89 448 4095
+49 89 4895 2458
http://www.nomiya.de
